Question & Answer Board

A Search for questions in the category "RR Lighting" found the following results. Questions are sorted beginning with the most recent. The next most recent 20 questions and answers are shown below beginning with the 431st.

Q3079 Lantern Cleaning W/O Lye I was cleaning out my father's home and came across this Soo Line Lantern. The lantern appears complete and in decent ‎shape. Other than a cleaning I don't think it needs much restoration. The questions I have: ‎what method do you recommend to clean it without using the lye or other methods on your restoration page to simply clean it? And how does it work? The fuel reservoir is full of cotton or some other material and there isn't a wick. I'm not sure if the material in the tank is also a wick or if I can insert a wick. Any advice or point to a resource page is appreciated. Thanks [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, December 27, 2015 by Mark Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Hi, That lantern looks in good shape. I would use a sponge and dish detergent just to wipe it down and dry it off good. I wouldn't try to clean it too much. Grime and dents are part of the character of any lantern that put in years of service. The material in the oil fount is called batting. It is supposed to be in there. That kept the oil from sloshing around and from spilling since signal lanterns like this got swung around for signaling the engineer. The batting is kind of a double-edge sword. It is supposed to be in there when the lantern was used. However, it can also trap water and rust out the oil fount. You can keep it there or take it out. It is totally your choice. The lantern will work fine without it. As for a wick, most good hardware or camping store have many sizes of wicks available and if you take the lantern with you I am sure you can find one to fit. If you light the lantern don't set the flame high enough to produce smoke. I use odorless lamp oil. You don't have to use kerosene. Enjoy the lantern. It is a nice treasure. JN Posted Monday, December 28, 2015 by JN

A. All of the above is good advice....Just be aware that the wick size choice can be a little tricky and needs some care. For example there are sizes such as 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" which do not have much visible difference without a close look. See prior Q 2238 on this Board and also you can enter "wick" in the word or phrase search to see lots of discussion. In general, the correct wick will be snug and fill the tube so that the flame can not 'sneak past' into the fuel supply. But not 'stuffed in' to the point that it jams the wick raising mechanism. And a handy trick for starting a wick for the first time is to trim the wick end and use some masking tape to make a 'leader' to run thru the tube first, pulling the wick along behind. A properly sized soft new wick will not require a whole lot of muscle to pull thru this way, using the wick raiser to help move it; but 'pulling on rope' has ALWAYS worked better than trying to push on it. Posted Monday, December 28, 2015 by RJMc

A. Thanks for the feedback. several more questions: If I keep the batting in the container how does the wick get in there as the canister is packed tight with the batting. also, does the canister come out? it appears in other pictures that the canister can come out but mine looks to be in there very snuggly and I don't want to try and force it out. thank you Posted Tuesday, January 5, 2016 by Mark

A. You may find the instruction sheet helpful, newly listed in the Archives section of this website (see Link). The batting was originally very soft and flexible and it was easy to just push it out of the way enough to make a central hole for the wick, which needs to reach the bottom of the fount (fuel pot.) If your batting is all hardened up with age, moistening it with some of the fuel you will use may help; then try pushing it out of the way with something like a dinner knife. If this doesn't work, consider pulling it out and replacing it (or not replacing it, your choice.) The fount definitely comes out, and they were always made to be a very snug fit. Hot soaking, WD40, PB Blaster, gentle heating -- a hair dryer is a good start, are all possible treatments. Once the burner and wick raiser are out, the fuel pot will (should) be able to turn in the base, and that may help work it loose. If the fount is rusted in, there are more aggressive treatments but they get into harsher chemicals (lye, for example); try the more gentle techniques first. Link 1 Posted Tuesday, January 5, 2016 by RJMc

Q3078 Date of Handlan Lantern? I ran across a Handlan short red globe lantern. I was wondering if anyone can help me about the year it was made in? Thanks. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, December 25, 2015 by JB Post a Reply Email a reply

A. That is a Handlan #355 lantern and they may have produced it until sometime in the 1960's. All of those dates that are on the bottom are patent dates and none are production dates. I am looking at a similar lantern and all of those dates are on it also. In "The illustrated encyclopedia Of railroad Lighting-Volume One-The Railroad Lantern" they say that a 1956 Handlan catalog that was obtained from the factory in 1970 shows the lantern with a "Discontinued" rubber stamp across the listing. Posted Saturday, December 26, 2015 by KM

A. Are you sure? I mean I know nothing about it but I pulled up a 355 and this one looks different. Posted Saturday, December 26, 2015 by JB

A. 3 4 13 - 5 18 15 - 1 31 22 - 12 8 23 - 5 5 25 - 4 2 28 - 7 10 28 are the numbers on the bottom and there likes like to be a horseshoe with some letters in the middle of it made into the globe itself. Posted Saturday, December 26, 2015 by JB

A. As to looking different, Handlan made this lantern so that it could accommodate either a 4-1/2" tall globe or the "standard" 3-1/4" shorty globe. The top globe retainer would be the difference. Also earlier Handlan lanterns of this model had a taller top chimney. As the years went by they shortened the top chimney like yours. This looks like one of the later production models from the 1960's. Posted Saturday, December 26, 2015 by bobf

A. The horseshoe with the letters in it is the Corning Glass trade mark. Posted Sunday, December 27, 2015 by KM

A. The link is for the lantern catalog page from the 1956 Handlan catalog that is in the Railroadiana Library. It shows the #355 and syas it takes the #250 globe which would be the short globe like you have. My #345 lantern which is marked NYCS has those exact same dates on the bottom, but given the almost new condition of it I think that it is from the 50's or 60's. It also has a green globe and I remember seeing lanterns like it in the tower at Berea, OH and the tower at the lakefront by Bridge 1 in Cleveland. I also have two other #345 or #355 lanterns that are marled W&LE and CCC&StL, and they have the same patent dates on the bottom, and I do not see any difference in th eheight of the tops on them. The W&LE lantern has the heavy locomotive base and the bottom of the lantern is rounded not flat like the other two, but it still has those dates embossed into it. Is there a railroad name or initials on your lantern, that might help you date it? Link 1 Posted Sunday, December 27, 2015 by KM

Q3076 Adlake Lamp I am trying to identify this 17 inch high Adlake lamp: its use, date, and whether it takes oil or acetylene. Any help is appreciated. Many thanks. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Saturday, December 19, 2015 by PD Post a Reply Email a reply

A. thats a gas lamp they used it in all sorts of different rail cars like parler cars dinning cars train stations even homes, its dates back to the 1800s Posted Saturday, December 19, 2015 by trm

Q3071 Fresnel Globes I know that there has been a number of questions in reference to fresnel globes but I have not seen an answer to this question. Is there a reason for the number of rings around the globe? I've seen some with 5 rings, some with 6? Were all RR related lanterns that used that style globe have the same number of rings? Thanks, Posted Monday, December 14, 2015 by RLN Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Corning Fresnel RR globes had 6 rings, 2 on the bottom and 4 on top where as Kopp also had 6 rings and had an even 3 on the bottom and 3 on top. Both were used in RR lanterns. Haven't seen any with 5 rings. I don't know why 6 rings seemed to be chosen maybe that was optimum for a vertical space of 3 1/4 inches. Posted Tuesday, December 15, 2015 by GH

A. The width of each ring, the number of rings, and their placement on the globe determine the outgoing light pattern with the globe acting as a concentrating lens for the light. The RR's may have had standards which defined acceptable designs. The RR's standardized almost everything about lanterns, to keep spare parts inventories down and to minimize replacement costs. There are also some patents on Fresnel globes and that may have caused some variations. The Link is to a website which deals generally with highway warning lanterns, which almost universally used Fresnel globes, but they were made by the same mfgrs. and as the website notes they were often interchangeable with or very similar to their RR lantern products. Link 1 Posted Wednesday, December 16, 2015 by RJMc

Q3066 Deitz Vesta Fonts I am interested in buying a particular Vesta lantern that is missing the burner and fuel pot. I have seen these fuel pots both with ribs and without the ribs. Are they interchangeable with all vesta lanterns? Any help in assuring that I buy the right fuel pot to fit this lantern will be greatly appreciated ! Posted Tuesday, December 1, 2015 by Dave N. Post a Reply Email a reply

A. The link is for a more detailed article about Vestas that is posted in the Railroadiana Library. Link 1 Posted Wednesday, December 2, 2015 by KM

A. The smooth and ribbed fonts for Vestas are interchangeable. The smooth font is older, a 1938 blueprint drawing shows the crimped or serrated edge font and that was used until 1960 when they stopped producing the Vesta. The production date on the top of the lantern was used sometime after the mid 1920's, it is usually the last number in the list of patent dates and it will begin with an "S" for Syracuse plant followed by the month and year of production. Posted Wednesday, December 2, 2015 by KM

A. Thank you for all the helpful information on Vesta lanterns. With this information I will now be able to purchase the correct font for the date of manufacture of this lantern. I had no idea that Vesta lanterns had a manufacture date stamped on the top. I had to look very hard to find it as it is stamped in such small letters. Thank you for the knowledge that you have provided. D.B.N Link 1 Posted Wednesday, December 2, 2015 by DBN

A. There are 4 styles of smooth side Vesta founds that I have found: The smooth side fount similar in size to the ribbed side fount. These were used on the earliest short Vestas. There are 3 larger capacity smooth side founts found on tall Vestas. One has a stepped bottom edge, similar to the bottom edge of the smaller smooth side fount. Then there are two large smooth side founts with a rounded bottom edge and these come in both threaded burner (pretty rare) and the familiar slip in burner. Some of the burners on these early rounded edge Vesta founts will occasionally turn up with a noticeably smaller wick raising knob. Unfortunately due the interchangeability of all these founts, it's a challenge to figure out a time line for these changes in style. Posted Tuesday, December 8, 2015 by JFR

Q3065 H.B. Mfg Co Conductor's Lantern I recently picked up a brass conductor's lantern, the style is very similar to Adam's Westlake, but the only marking reads 'H.B. Mfg Co'. I'm wondering if anyone has any information about this manufacturer? A full name, dates of operation, or location of the company would be fantastic. Thanks! [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, November 30, 2015 by NH Post a Reply Email a reply

A. The Railroadiana Library has a 1918 Handlan catalog which shows the "Daisy" model 195 lantern. See the link for the page from that catalog. Link 1 Posted Wednesday, December 2, 2015 by KM

A. Handlan Buck Manufacturing Co. may be the name. A H Handlan bought out M M Buck in 1895 and the company name was changed in 1901 to Handlan Buck Manufacturing Co. This may be a "Daisy" conductor's lantern that was offered in their catalogs from 1887 until 1918. A drawing of this is shown in "The Illustrated Encyclopedia Of Railroad Lighting:Volume One-The Railroad Lantern" on page 146. Handlan was located in St. Louis and remained in operation there until late in the Twentieth Century. Posted Wednesday, December 2, 2015 by KM

A. Thank you so much KM! The catalog image is fantastic, a perfect match. Posted Friday, December 4, 2015 by NH

Q3064 Piper Lamp - Follow-up to #3032 This lamp was identified on your Question & Answer Board (Q3032). I have a couple of followup questions: 1. What would have been the original paint color of this lamp (the inside and around the lense was painted flat black but no idea if that was original or not)? 2. Where these lamps restricted to Canada (being Canada made) or were they sold internationally, e.g., to the Untied States? [See photo in #3032]. Many Thanks, Posted Saturday, November 28, 2015 by John G. Post a Reply Email a reply

A. As to paint: Lamps, (and through the first third of the 1900s, virtually all iron and steel car parts), were painted with “japan black” (lower case ‘j’). “japan black” paint , or lacquer, was made by dissolving Gilsonite in mineral spirits and often adding some carbon black. Gilsonite is a type of hard, brittle asphalt which is mined in Utah. (The Unitah Ry. was constructed just to haul the stuff!) As a paint, “japan black” is soft, but very durable. It sticks tenaciously to metal without primer, and is flexible enough to stretch and shrink with the metal items as they expand and contract with heat and cold. When applied, it is very shiny, and over time muting to a more ‘egg shell’ finish. The finished appearance of japan black is unique, and in 40 years of trying, I’ve never found a replacement paint that accurately matches the soft sheen of japan black that has aged. Many people repaint lamps in a flat black. I’ve never seen a lamp with its original paint, at any age, that looked anything like the available variations of flat black. ---- …. Red Beard Posted Thursday, December 3, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Red Beard, I've found the high heat semi-gloss from Rustoleum does a nice job on lamps. I hate the look of flat black (and it chips like crazy), and the high gloss looks terrible. Its a nice compromise that is both durable and attractive (and easy to apply). Posted Monday, December 7, 2015 by jpnelson

A. JP; Thanks for that. I'll look for that product at the hardware store. -- Of Note: brand new, out of the box switch lamps had a very high gloss sheen to them; though distinctly different from the high gloss of Rustoleum or Krylon. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Friday, December 11, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

Q3062 Lamp/Lantern ID? I acquired a really large lantern this week... about 2 foot square, tin with red and green lens which are about 12 inch diameter. Not sure if this is a RR or ships light? Any ideas? Regards, [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, November 25, 2015 by RA Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Barrett's Illustrated Encyclopedia of RR Lighting Vol. 2 shows an Adlake No. 199 Drawbridge Light, sold between 1907 thru the 1940's. The Adlake is functionally similar to yours, with red and green 8 3/8" diameter lenses, and also had a white Fresnel lens inside, but had a chimney set up for a kerosene burner while yours looks to have been electrically lit, since there is no effective ventilation. Other manufacturers such as Handlan made very similar lamps for drawbridge service; the 8 3/8" lens diameter seems to have been a standard. Posted Wednesday, November 25, 2015 by RJMc

A. Thanks so much for the help! Actually it was made in Toronto Ontario by Piper and Son makers of Lamps and Chandeliers! 18 something or other. regards Posted Saturday, November 28, 2015 by Roger

Q3061 Dressel Lamp Info? Can you tell me anything about this? It's make by Dressel and says stimsonite on the reflector. Any information would be appreciated! [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, November 25, 2015 by AK Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Appears to have been converted from a glass lens oil burning lamp to a (plastic?) lens reflector lamp for some reason in its history. Maybe a gate crossing lamp? Others here may know exactly. Posted Friday, November 27, 2015 by GL

Q3059 Dressel Lamp Date Range? Good Day All! I'm trying to find out the approximate age of a Dressel Switch lamp I picked up here a while back. I've searched around the Q&A section here but have not been able to get some kind of a date range. It has a round top marked 'Dressel' in the center with 'Arlington N.J U.S.A.' around the outside. The only other marking is 'ERIE' in the center mounting socket on the bottom which I assume is the Erie Railroad. There are no other markings. It's not electric, the front slides up to access the inside and has 2 blue/green and 2 amber Corning 5 3/8 lenses with the lens hoods. Any help with dating this lamp would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure these were made for quite a while but any sort of date range would be great. Thanks for your time! [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, November 23, 2015 by Gary Post a Reply Email a reply

A. I would guess mid 1920's to mid 1930's. Just a guess based on the flame peephole on the lamp body. Earlier Dressels would have a different style name stamping on top. Later ones wouldn't have the peephole. Posted Tuesday, November 24, 2015 by JFR

A. Thanks so much for the reply and information JFR! I didn't think it was quite that old so it's good info to have. Thanks again! Gary Posted Wednesday, November 25, 2015 by Gary

Q3058 Help with Switch Lantern/Lamp Model Can anyone help me to identify a switch lantern manufacturer and model? I remember seeing my Grandfather;s lantern as a child and I also remember how much he treasured his lantern, I do not have a picture of the switch lantern in question as I only have a vague mental picture from my childhood. The lantern that he possessed was a large 4 sided lantern with day targets as large as dinner plates and had a bell shaped base,He often remarked that the bell bottom made it somehow stand out from similar lanterns, It seemed to be larger than any of the lanterns that I have seen anywhere, My Grandfather worked for the Pennsylvania RR as a fireman. he passed on years ago and I would like to find a lantern of this type to remember our time together. Any and all help in identifying this lantern would be greatly appreciated. Sorry that's all the information that I have to aid in the identification. Posted Saturday, November 21, 2015 by David N, Coraopolis, Pa Post a Reply Email a reply

A. The best way is to go to Ebay and look up Railroad Lanterns. There are many different ones on there at any given time. You may find one that resembles what you remember. Good lick with your quest. Without a picture, the only one who knows about the lantern is you. Posted Sunday, November 22, 2015 by JN

A. I took your advice and looked at all the types, models and manufacturers of switch lamps on E-bay, and low and behold I do believe that I was taken back in time and found myself viewing the same type of switch lantern as my Grandfather's. I Believe the switch lamp to be an Adlake model 169 with day targets. I am now actively looking to purchase this type of lantern. Thank you for your help in steering me in the right direction. Dave N. Coraopolis, Pa. Posted Tuesday, December 1, 2015 by DBN

Q3056 ATSF Lamp I don’t normally collect Santa Fe lamps, as I am a SP & Pacific Electric lamp Collector. I kind of fell in love with the look of this lamp, but I suspect it is a railroad globe on a basic barn type lamp. Cannot find a reference to it on Key, Lock & Lantern site. Am I right, or was this used on the Santa Fe as it is? Any information you could share would help me to decide if I want to purchase it or not. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, November 17, 2015 by FJ Post a Reply Email a reply

A. I don't remember having seen any Santa Fe marked barn lanterns but if one was marked in this way it would have been an etched marking more than likely. This looks like a well executed decal applied to a an old globe and artificially aged. Look closely at how the sunlight reflects off the upper right corner of the marking or if you have access to it, run your finger over the marking. Even a silk screened marking such as on soda water bottles from the 1930s and 40s should raise alarm bells when found on a railroad globe. Posted Tuesday, November 17, 2015 by MG

A. Back in the late 1960's new Dietz lanterns with globes like this (applied decals) were marketed to the general public at retail. I even remember them being sold at either Walgreen's or Woolworth's. Since the globe size is standard, I suspect that one of those late 1960's globes was inserted in an older frame. It is NOT railroad issue. Posted Tuesday, November 17, 2015 by bobf

A. If this is a decal (and it looks like it is), we mention a fake with the Santa Fe logo on one of our web pages .. see link. Link 1 Posted Wednesday, November 18, 2015 by Web Editor

A. A seller on that well known auction site recently had several of these decaled barn lantern globes from various railroads for sale, including a Northern Pacific one with the incorrect Monad logo - turned 90 degrees from where it should be. The globes were in various rusty barn lantern frames, headlined as "rare", and priced at $250. No one bid, so the price dropped to $50 and the NP one sold, but not sure about the Santa Fe lantern. Posted Friday, November 20, 2015 by JEM

Q3052 Steel Clad Lantern I purchased a Dietz Steel Clad lantern that has an E.R.R.Co. globe in it. Both the lantern and globe show no signs of use (not overly cleaned to look unused). Dealer stated globe was in the lantern when he bought it and had no details on origin. Frame, of course, is not marked. Is this a legitimate Erie lantern? Did a cost-conscious Erie purchase Steal Clad frames for an existing stock of globes, or did someone just stick an Erie globe in an unmarked frame? Also, can anyone give me some general facts about Steel Clads, especially prevalence of railroad use? Thanks much, [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, November 16, 2015 by Steve Post a Reply Email a reply

Q3051 PRR Keystone Logo on Globe I recently purchased a Pennsylvania R.R. Keystone 'Casey' Lantern – the patent dates along the outer rim are of 1902 and 1903. The globe is a clear Corning with the Cnx logo on one side and the PRR Keystone logo on the other side. The lid of lantern is stamped P.R.R. I recently came across you article about Fakes and Counterfeits and just wanted to know if the Pennsylvania R.R. ever marked their globes with the PRR Keystone Logo. Thank you. Posted Sunday, November 15, 2015 by Phillip Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Is the PRR logo cast, or etched, into the globe? Posted Sunday, November 15, 2015 by RJMc

A. PRR had cast 5-3/8 logo globes. The logo is pretty small, about 7/8" or so tall. PRR also had etched globes with the PRR logo, having a larger size logo. Posted Friday, November 20, 2015 by bobf

Q3046 Piper Switch Lanterns Greetings all, I have 2 Piper CNR switch lanterns, the 1st one is made of cast metal and is in pretty tough shape, the second is newer and is in good shape with all its parts and is made of galvanized metal. My question is if anyone knows the age of these and if there is a way to tell by looking at them? Posted Tuesday, November 10, 2015 by JW Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Send a photo Posted Wednesday, November 11, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. These are the pictures of the two lanterns in question. They both are CNR HL Piper lanterns, they both had plastic lenses in the wrong color combinations. The first is the newer of the two made from galvanized metal. The second had been hit but something and is in tough shape and is made from cast metals. Any info that could be provided would be greatly appreciated. Link 1 Posted Friday, November 13, 2015 by JW

A. Hi JW I live in Canada and have a couple of these myself. The oldest ones were made of brass. I would speculate that the ones made next were the cast ones, then the ones which were galvanized sheet steel. The two I have are both galvanized sheet metal with some cast steel parts on the bottom. The collars that held the lenses are brass on both of mine, and painted black. As for exact age, it may be hard, if not impossible to tell. I have seen photos dating as late as 1979 showing switch stands complete with the kero lamps in use in Toronto. I know that the earliest lamps used the standard fresnel lamp lenses, then some were updated to lenses made of stimsonite (a type of reflective plastic). Those were the first form of reflectorized 'targets' in use on switch stands. I have a CNR manual from 1974 which describes the stimsonite option when ordering these lamps. As the lenses were constantly being changed and updated, even looking at the lenses won't give you an exact date of manufacture for the lamp itself. As the Piper lamps were made from Adlake plans with permission, I would see if you can compare your lamps to known (and dated) Adlake plans, that may be an option to estimate the date yours were made, unless you can see a date stamp under all that old paint. Happy collecting! Steve B. Posted Sunday, November 15, 2015 by Steve B.

A. Wow, Steve, great information. Thanks. -- Could you scan or photo copy that CNR manual and send it to the web editor for use on this site?? -- thanks. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Friday, November 20, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

Q3043 Caboose Lamp? I believe this to be a Caboose Lantern, or other type of signal lamp, however I've been unable to find anything similar to it searching for RR lamps. It has no name of a RR or of the manufacturer. It measures approximately 14 in tall by 5 in wide by 5-1/2 in deep and had three flat lenses with the option of any one of the three being in use at any one time or possibly two together as one position is stationary. They would have measured 4-1/2 square, the glass in the stationary position could be removed or replaced through a slot located under a flap on the top of the lamp, the other two through an open slot in the top of the swinging glass holder. The two swinging positions, when not in use slide inside secured with a sliding pin. The rear has tang used to attach the lamp to a flat surface. The rear opens for access to the burner, directly behind the burner is a convex mirror like surface to focus or intensify the light. Any help would be greatly appreciated! [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, November 8, 2015 by Steve U Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Hi Steve, I can't give you a positive identification, but the design of your lamp, particularly the chimney, looks French. Possibly a dwarf signal lamp or a side lamp from a "fourgon", the French name for a caboose. Posted Thursday, November 19, 2015 by JAJ

Q3038 Dayton Lamp Burner I bought this Dayton lamp today, I am trying to find out the correct burner for this lamp. It has an HG Moehring burner which is period, but I still would like some input. Thanks Jason [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, October 27, 2015 by Jason Post a Reply Email a reply

Q3037 EMD Locomotive Light I picked up this locomotive light. He said it came off an EMD engine. The light is not marked. If you turn the light with the visors on the bottom of the lenses the wingnuts are on the left side the way it is in the picture the wingnuts or on the right side. Which way should the visors be on the top or on the bottom of the lens? Can anybody shed any light on these lights? Thanks. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, October 27, 2015 by RT Post a Reply Email a reply

A. thank you rjmc and red beard i have never seen a locomotive with sealed beem visors above the lights. if anyone has a picture of one please post it.iam goeing to mount this light and need to know witch way the visors go up or down thank you Posted Wednesday, October 28, 2015 by rt

A. This shows a set of shorter "hoods" on a U.P. GP30 ---- .... Red Beard Link 1 Posted Wednesday, October 28, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. i looked again and found Pyle logos under the wing nut hinges. om the back there is a number 14231 gb witch is a Pyle number.the light is 18 inches tall and 11 inches wide the sealed beams or 6 1/2 diameter think this light was made in the 1950s. it about 10 pounds.what locomotive would this be on.anyother info would help thanks Posted Wednesday, October 28, 2015 by rt

A. The visors are mounted above the bulbs to keep snow and ice off. See prior Q 978 on this site for a lot of discussion of exactly this type of headlight. The sealed beam-type bulbs became commercially available in the mid-1930's and this kind of Pyle mount was (and is) widely used as standard original equipment on diesels beginning as early as GP-7's and Alco RS's, where the carbody flat ends made these easy to mount. This same type of fixture was also mounted on a flat round blanking plate and retrofit onto many of the early diesels and even some steam locos, which had originally had large (250 Watt) screw-in headlight bulbs with glass reflectors and flat glass covers. The sealed beams provided brighter light and had no expensive somewhat fragile reflector or cover plate to maintain. So there is no way to tell for sure which of thousands of locos this might have operated on. The paint color is probably your best clue. Posted Wednesday, October 28, 2015 by RJMc

A. ...AND, some railroads mounted the visors Under the lamps! -- As low hood GP and SD units from EMD came out, the headlamps were usually mounted right under the roof line above the windshield of the cab, rather than on the low nose of the unit (as on GP20, GP30 and low hood U-Boats). Some mounted headlamps in the nose and Mars lights above the windshield. -- Mounting the headlamps or a Mars light above the cab windshield, and therefore over the low hood, presented a brand new design for railroad engines, with associated issues never encountered before. One of those issues was having to deal with glare from light reflecting off the low hood deck; both sun light and headlamp reflection. Union Pacific dealt with general glare by painting the nose deck on cab units (E's and F's) or the hood deck on low hood GP & SD units, with a matte finish of deep green or light gray. Some roads put a high traction coating on noses and hoods that provided both traction for workers needing to stand on those surfaces for window cleaning or repairs, as well as glare reduction. -- Some roads like the CB&Q put hoods UNDER the sealed beam headlamps or Mars lights (LINK 1) to keep the glare off the hood surface in front of the windshield; Link 1 being the only photo I can find at the moment. Generally, headlamps produced enough heat that snow and ice buildup were not a problem. ---- .... Red Beard Link 1 Posted Wednesday, October 28, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. I stand corrected. Having now looked at many pix online, two things are clear. One is the visors are ONLY used when the light is above the windshields on low nose diesel units. This makes sense; the visors would just snag crewmen trying to cross the narrow walkway in front of the low nose, and mounted there the bulbs don't need protection. Second, when mounted above the windshields of low noses, the visors are always on the bottom, no doubt to control glare rather than any weather effects. This is true whether the light is the fixed main headlight or a Mars or Pyle gyrating light. Depending on how you plan to use the light, the PAR 56 No. 4545 bulbs are a good option; they are 12 Volt 100 watt rather than the original 32 volt or more recent 74 volt lamps. And they are readily available fairly cheap from several different sources on the web because they are used in boat searchlights. Posted Wednesday, October 28, 2015 by RJMc

Q3035 A&W 300 vs 400 Could you tell me the difference between an Adlake fount & burner 300 and the Adlake fount & burner 400? Thank You. Posted Sunday, October 25, 2015 by Rich S Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Hi Rich,The main difference between the 300 and 400 founts and burners is the width of the lantern wick and the larger hole in the fount to accommodate the wider wick/burner.I believe that the 400 burner takes a 7/8" wide wick and the 300 takes a 5/8" wide wick.The fount capacities are the same but of course the wider wick version will consume the same oil capacity much quicker,but the trade off is a considerably brighter flame. DJB Posted Monday, October 26, 2015 by DJB

Q3032 RR Versus Nautical Lamp/Lantern? Here is a picture of a lantern my Dad (now deceased) had. I always thought it was a ship's running light. However, when I went to clean it up, I noticed that not only was it made of light sheet metal (wouldn't last long at sea!) with a copper cap, but it also had a brass tag showing the manufacturer as NL Piper, Railriad Supply Co., Toronto. Any idea what this type of lamp was for, era, and what it used for a light source? Thanks. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, October 20, 2015 by John G. Post a Reply Email a reply

A. These were (and are) used on all kinds of bridges over navigable waterways, including but not necessarily limited to RR bridges. Posted Tuesday, October 20, 2015 by RJMc

A. Very interesting. This one looks like it had a tray on the inside likely for a kerosene burner. Thanks you very much! Posted Tuesday, October 20, 2015 by John G.

A. The section on the Piper family of companies in Barrett's Illustrated Encyc. of RR Lighting Vol. 2 shows that "NL Piper Ry. Supply" stood for Noah L. Piper and was the trademark used between 1902 and 1930. The lamp is a bridge pier lamp, with this style reported as first marketed in 1917. These are used to mark ship navigation channels, so it is in part nautical. The top seems to have been modified in service, but that was not unusual; subsequent variations of the 'Piper' company catalogued this kind of lantern up thru 1953 and this general kind of lamp is still commonly used. Since the service was at fixed locations, which often had access to electricity, these were very early and common users of electric bulbs but many originated with and continued to have kerosene burners for decades. Posted Tuesday, October 20, 2015 by RJMc

Q3031 Star Lantern Question How do you open a star flasher 215-t to replace the battery? Thanks. Posted Sunday, October 18, 2015 by KW Post a Reply Email a reply

A. On most of these lamps, the round top unscrews from the rectangular plastic case to get access to the 6V rectangular lantern battery, which just slides out (unless the battery has leaked and/or swollen up from going completely dead). The Link is to the Star website where they have later models with LED's and rechargeable batteries, but if you look at the 215-TL, under the tab marked 'Docs and Resources' there is a complete operating manual that describes all this. Link 1 Posted Sunday, October 18, 2015 by RJMc

A. Use the Link below to get to the Model 215-TL to see how the battery comprtment opens; the link above is to a more recent model that doesn't work quite the same way as the one you probably have. Link 1 Posted Monday, October 19, 2015 by RJMc

Q3030 Canadian Lamp I have a lamp that looks unusual to me, and I'd like to find out more about it. It's ~17 in. tall with the handle extended & ~8 in. wide, is marked GTR (for the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, no doubt) on the top and Piper - Maker - Toronto on 3 lines on the burner fuel tank. For the most part, I'll let the photos do the talking, but here are a few notes: There's a heavy cast-iron base with 4 legs. The top handle is also cast iron, but most of the rest is sheet metal. It's in poor condition with much rust, many dents, broken glass & missing major pieces. Side 1 - the usual type of mounting bracket used on markers & class lamps. Side 2 - clear bullseye that has a catch & opens up to reveal a clear flat glass underneath. Side 3 - the bullseye & its mounting are missing, but the flat glass is still there Side 4 - (this is the most interesting) - the whole side opens up (catch at the top & hinge at the bottom) for access to the burner. There is a round thingy on the outside with a half-round door that rotates to reveal a couple of pockets inside, one of which has a half-round piece of green glass in it (think it's the broken half of what was once a full round - I only discovered the glass after I took the photos so no picture of it). This glass fits into a bracket inside the remaining bullseye. The green glass says 'Locomotive Class Lamp' since white meant extra train & green meant 2nd section following, but please correct me if I'm wrong. What intrigues me most is that it is quite unlike anything I've seen before & has a vaguely British look. Any comments on that would be most welcome as well as a date range. Does it qualify for the Rare Canadian Lamps page, or is it just a common item I've not happened to come across before? [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, October 14, 2015 by Tom E. Post a Reply Email a reply

A. It is a very unusual lamp ! ..likely from back in the late 1800s. American switch lamps of similar designs show up on eBay occasionally, so it is a North American design style; just very old. -- See: No 85 Acme Engine Classification Lamp in link 1 for a description of how Adlake’s lamps used a similar round enclosure for the colored discs to change the color displayed and how the clear flat glass panes kept the lamp sealed and air tight while changing out the color discs. Due to its age and condition, I strongly suggest that you leave it exactly as it is and not try to clean it up much or paint it. If you live in a high moisture area, I'd give it a good spray down with WD-40 to help retard any further rust. It actually looks very interesting in that rusty patina. ---- …. Red Beard Link 1 Posted Thursday, October 15, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. See Link for a nice clear pic of very similar class lights on a Canadian Northern / Canadian National steam loco. Pic is obviously after 1929 but refers (in the pic) to 1905. Engine was probably preserved; note wood pilot beam and arc headlight. Link 1 Posted Friday, October 16, 2015 by RJMc

A. Good detective work RJMc. I think you nailed it. Posted Saturday, October 17, 2015 by LG

A. I hate to quibble. After all, I really know nothing about these things & you guys have plenty of experience. But I see the lamps on the loco having the same square shape & chimney arrangement, but I think they have 3 lenses rather than the 2 lenses & the funny door. The base is also somewhat different - no legs. So there's a family resemblance, but they aren't identical twins. Red Beard's Acme does have the door, but not the shape. Is the Piper Maker Toronto of any significance? Tom E. Posted Saturday, October 17, 2015 by Tom E.

A. The Canadian roads often preferred to buy from Piper, the most prominent Canadian supplier/manufacturer. (Which is why I went looking at Canadian Northern pix; there aren't many pix of GTR engines of the right period.) Piper sold their own items as well as items either made or bought under license from US manufacturers. There was nothing unique in this; US roads tended to buy from manufacturers that were online or in their service territories, and those suppliers/manufacturers traded around designs and hardware all the time among themselves. For whatever reason, the Canadians seemed to prefer the inverted 'U' shroud over the top of their lamps, and even the headlight on the engine in the pic has one. And it looks to me that the four legs might actually be on the lamp on the engine in the pic. But regardless, as we say repeatedly, the manufacturers would alter their basic designs in multitudes of ways, according to whatever a customer ordered. So I think you can be confident your lamp is a Canadian classification lamp made in the mid- to late 19th century. Unless more detailed pix show up, it will be very difficult to get more precise. Posted Saturday, October 17, 2015 by RJMc

A. Having just said all that, I finally looked in Barrett's Illustrated Encyc. of Railroad Lighting Vol. II, under 'Piper'. It shows a catalog illustration of this lamp (clearly showing the 4 legs) with Barrett's ID of PIP CL04 as a No. 6 Classification Lamp and says 'First produced on March 19, 1917" and that the bracket was versatile enough to allow use as a class light in any position on the engine or as a tender marker, depending on which colored disc was placed "between the white lenses and the inside plain glass" -- (which was an unusual way to do it). The similar other model Piper class lights (apparently without the legs) were made at least as early as 1890, and as was common practice Piper used the same basic housing to also make switch lamps, semaphore lamps, and train order signals. Posted Saturday, October 17, 2015 by RJM

A. As to rarity: these lamps (and lanterns) were almost regarded as consumables. They were being mass-produced and were not serial numbered, and in many cases were listed in catalogs over many years. There is now almost no way to know how many of any one item were made. Posted Saturday, October 17, 2015 by RJMc

A. Thanks to both of you for your information & I've learned a lot from you. Tom E. Posted Thursday, October 22, 2015 by Tom E.

Q3029 Inspector Lamp Finish I just received a Dietz Acme Inspector Lantern in good shape that I want to restore. Looking at images on the Internet, people get 'creative' with colors. I want mine to look correct. Given that, I have a question about the lantern as far as original colors for these lanterns. Does anyone know if these lanterns tended to be left unfinished and typically what was the color of inside dome? White or unfinished are the only logically choices I see for the inside dome since you would want to maximize the reflecting light coming out, but I could be wrong. I have two pretty good lantern books and neither mention this type of lantern. And yes, I did find the attached picture on the Railroadiana website and this particular lantern appears to be unfinished. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, October 9, 2015 by EM Post a Reply Email a reply

A. see link from this site: Link 1 Posted Thursday, October 15, 2015 by JFR

A. Your photo shows an Ideal model which would be black enamel. The Acme was bright tin, although very late production models might be painted in various blues, black or greens. Tough to tell what might be original or painted by the owner, so I'd stick with unpainted for a vintage looking Acme. I've seen white paint in the reflector area on NYC lamps, but this was company, not a factory practice. On a new lantern, the tin would have reflected brighter than any paint. Posted Thursday, October 15, 2015 by JFR

A. Any suggestions on how to seal up some pin holes on the cape (or cone) on my same lantern? I will probably have to go with black paint due to the holes that I want to cover up. But the question is, what is the best method to cover up the holes? The holes are truly pin holes. A thick paint may do the trick, but I want to weigh my options. There's all kinds of metal fillers and even some Bondo options. I do want to make the lantern functional. Not that the pin holes would stop that, but I want to use proper material as filler. Or, maybe someone will suggest just to leave them as are and consider them "character" of an old and used lantern. Thanks in advance! Posted Wednesday, October 21, 2015 by EJM

Q3028 Item ID Needed I hope that you can help me identify this item. I am attaching images of the item that I recently found in my new home's attic. The round part is a red painted metal and it is attached to a piece of wood with two black iron brackets. As you can see, the letters CN are stamped into the metal on the front. The item is approx. 8 in. tall and 5.5 in. long at the bottom. Any and all assistance to satisfy my curiosity would be appreciated. Thanks very much and I look forward to hearing from you. Kind regards. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, October 9, 2015 by MJ Post a Reply Email a reply

A. This is the holder for a 'caboose lamp.' Prior Q 2472 has a good picture of exactly the same holder as yours, with the burner and chimney installed. Q's 2560 and 2340 have a lot more discussion about caboose lamps and pictures of the way they were usually installed. They were also sometimes used in other kinds of cars and sometimes in buildings. 'CN' is most likely Canadian National RR. Posted Friday, October 9, 2015 by RJMc

A. Thank you very much! Posted Tuesday, October 13, 2015 by MJ

Q3027 Brass RR Lamps I have a question about brass railroad lamps. I collect NYNH&H RR items and have noticed over the years several lamps that were brass come up for sale. Most were converted to a table lamp which is why I had no interest. My question is: are these lamps that are RR marked really made of brass originally for a railroad or are they made for sale to private people for display purposes and were never intended to be railroad used? I have seen a few Handlan and one Peter Gray lamp that were 'BRASS'. Whats the deal? Posted Wednesday, October 7, 2015 by Brian D Post a Reply Email a reply

A. The lantern and lamp supply companies were very versatile and would make lanterns and lamps out of almost any material a customer would order (some of the old catalogs are in the archives on this web site, showing prices for the options). That included making the fancy conductor's lanterns out of silver and gold sheet, as well as steel, tin plate, tern metal, galvanized, and not painted or painted almost any way they could; the same dies could stamp them out regardless. But some of the lantern models were definitely and routinely made for the RR's and for regular RR use with some or all of the parts in brass. Its also true that Handlan towards the end of their production made switch lamps in brass mostly for the souvenir market rather than for RR use. Posted Wednesday, October 7, 2015 by RJMc

A. First, it is important to differentiate between Lamp and Lantern as the terms are used on this site; Lantern refers to the handheld personal lighting device carried by conductors, brakemen, switchmen, etc., used for personal lighting and in giving hand signals. Lamp refers to the larger devices used in signaling and fixed in one place, not carried by hand; switch lamps, marker lamps, classification lamps, semaphore lamps, etc. – To date, I have not seen an original railroad Lamp that was made from brass; not to say that they didn’t exist, just that I’ve never come across one.. Marine use lamps were made frequently of brass and even copper for corrosion resistance in salt water conditions. – In the 1960s and ‘70s it was quite popular to take old steel railroad Lamps and have them plated in brass or copper, many of which were also turned into table lamps. These usually have some pitting in them from rust corrosion that was removed before the plating process. – As RJMc mentions above, in the 1970s and ‘80s, Handlan made lamps from solid brass stock and some in copper as well; many were offered as pre-made table lamps. All of those brass and copper lamps were for the rail hobby market and not for railroad use. The reason a solid brass or copper lamp wasn’t of interest to railroads is due to the added expense. Steel lamps which had been dipped in Terne Metal held up well for decades, so the added cost of brass or copper material was unwarranted; and railroads were always very cost conscious. – In the 1970s and ‘80s, Handlan was still making railroad use lamps, but from thin, pre-galvanized sheet steel. – There’s a good chance that the Handlan lamps you’ve seen were some of those made for the hobby market. You can always test to see if a lamp is solid brass or plated by seeing if a magnet will stick to it; if the magnet sticks, the lamp is steel underneath the plating. ---- …. Red Beard Posted Thursday, October 8, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

Q3025 Passenger Brakeman Lanterns Did Passenger brakemen have brass conductor's lanterns too? Thanks. Posted Thursday, October 1, 2015 by KO Post a Reply Email a reply

A. I think the answer is "Some of them might, but probably no where near as many as the conductors." There were a huge variety of passenger trains and the job requirements varied. Practices varied greatly among railroads. But in general, the conductor's job was working inside the cars taking tickets and working with the passengers, and he needed his lantern to light that work at night. And he often purchased his lantern himself and it amounted to a 'badge of office' which justified additional expense (and he was getting paid more than the other trainmen). On the other hand, the brakemen's jobs included flagging when the train stopped, doing any coupling or uncoupling enroute which required passing hand signals, doing any necessary mechanical work such as treating hotboxes, and going out to throw switches whenever required. Flagging required a red lantern and would have justified a larger one. The other work required better light and likely required a clear lantern and a larger one, so both might have been provided by the railroad. So the brakemen were much less likely to be purchasing very elaborate lanterns at extra cost to themselves. An exception might have been if they had a regular assignment on a high priority limited or express where they were routinely serving as 'Assistnt Conductor'. Posted Monday, October 5, 2015 by RJMc

Q3023 Type of Lamp? Hello. My father in law passed away and I found this in his shed. He worked for the railroad. Any help would be appreciated. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by BR Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Is there any kind of burner, fuel fount, or wick arrangement with this? None is evident in the pic. Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by RJMc

A. It's possibly a carriage lamp or a side light for a very early car. Although you don't mention what metal it is made from, it appears to be brass. Posted Tuesday, October 6, 2015 by JEM

A. Thanks, JEM; I think you have it. Searching on 'carriage lamp' images turned up the link, which looks very much like the pic., along with a lot more of very similar flared style. When you look very closely at the pic, you can see the small red lens in the back cap which provided a marker, altho I am still puzzled about what kind of burner this had. Link 1 Posted Wednesday, October 7, 2015 by RJMc

A. A. usually the long tube held a spring that would push up a candle. at later times, a small kero pot and burner woulld fit into the opening at top okf tube. RCL Posted Thursday, October 8, 2015 by RCL

Q3019 History of A&W in Philadelphia? I have a Grand Trunk R-Y lantern with the letters 'GTR' raised on the clear glass globe, and 'The Adams and Westlake Company' in raised letters on top of the metal chimney. The cities Chicago and New York are also marked on the top of the chimney around the center; however, the city Philadelphia DOES NOT appear on the lantern. When I look at other Adams and Westlake lanterns online all the ones I see have all three cities, Chicago, New York, and Philadelphia, marked on the lantern. Are you aware of when Adams and Westlake began manufacturing in Philadelphia as well as Chicago and New York? My thought being that this would help me determine the age of my lantern, it apparently having been manufactured sometime before the city Philadelphia began being marked on the lanterns in addition to Chicago and New York. Thanks, Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by Bob T Post a Reply Email a reply

A. I suspect the city names stamped on the lantern were for major sales or headquarters offices, not necessarily where the manufacturing took place. All three cities were also major RR headquarters locations where the suppliers could base salesmen especially assigned to maintain contact with and cater to the company's largest and best customers. (PRR in Philadelphia, for example.) Posted Sunday, October 11, 2015 by RJMc

Q3018 Wick Adjusting Knob Repairable? Hello everyone. I'm a bit of a new collector here. I recently got a few lanterns and some of the wicks will not go up/down. The adjusting knob turns but doesn't raise/lower the wick. Is this repairable??? Thank you. Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by LC Post a Reply Email a reply

A. The usual cause of this problem is the fact that the wick has gotten old, stiff, and somewhat brittle with age and heat. The wick-raiser shaft has little gears with sharp teeth to engage the wick and push it up or down. Once the wick gets aged, those small teeth just break out the wick material and turn freely. To fix it you need to carefully remove the old wick, preferably by picking it out with very sharp needle-nose pliers or tweezers so as not to damage the actual mechanism inside the tube. Then you need a new wick. Sometimes just pulling a little on the old wick may cause it to reengage, if not all of it is hardened, but you risk stripping the teeth on the wick raiser shaft if you pull too hard, and that is not easy to repair -- that usually leads to a new burner assembly. Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by RJMc

A. BE CAREFUL when putting a new wick in there too! Too large of a wick, by just a little, will bind in the wick tube and the toothed wheel won't be able to move it. This will make the wheel jam in the new wick and turning the raiser knob will strip the wheel free from the stem, ruining the burner. I suspect this may also be the cause of your current problem. -- NOTE: many wicks available at the hardware store will be too big. I'd check with W.T.Kirkman on line (LINK 1) It's surprising that the toothed wheel wasn't better attached to the stem, but they weren't; they're actually pretty fragile. ---- .... Red Beard Link 1 Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

Q3017 Lighting RR Switch Lamps Can someone please explain the proper way to light railroad switch lamps? I have two Adlake models which are mounted on switch stands. They are fun to light once in a while but I'd like to know the proper procedure. Lately I've been removing the pot, setting on a table, turning the wick high above the glass chimney, lighting the wick and quickly turning the wick down to the right level and re-installing in the switch lamp. This sometimes causes the glass chimney to get black with soot. Later, I tried removing the fragile glass chimney, lit the wick and carefully put the chimney back on, which got quite hot. It was a fragile task and I know the chimneys can break easily and are hard to find. I considered lighting a long match stick, placing that down in the chimney to light the wick which would already be turned down low. How was it done on the railroad back in the day? I know that the signalmen had to climb the switch stands to do this, in all kinds of weather, and without breaking the fragile glass chimney or filling the lamp with soot! Thank you! Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by Steve. B Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Thank you Red Beard- you certainly are knowledgeable on many aspect of railroading! You should consider writing a book! Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by Steve B.

A. Steve, the lamp maintainer took the lamp off the switch stand when they refilled (usually weekly) and relit the lamps, which were left burning 24/7; unlike the over romanticized drawings of Victorian street lamps which were lit every evening by climbing a ladder, and extinguished at daybreak. Railroad maintainers also had a ready supply of replacement chimneys in case they broke. Ideally, during the refilling, the lamp maintainer was also supposed to clean any soot accumulated over the week from inside the lamp, the stack, lenses and the glass chimney, though the cleaning often got skipped and lamps could get pretty dirty. During the 1960s when a number of railroads were very short on money, many lamps were allowed to slide into serious disrepair while in service on the more cash strapped roads. . Where I grew up, the C&NW had particularly dirty lamps for this reason. After refilling, the lamp would then be relit and allowed to warm up before the flame was given a final adjustment; only then was it replaced on top of the switch stand target rod.. --- What I’m currently using is a butane Bar-B-Q lighter, the ones with the 4 inch long nozzle tip on them. You can find them at the grocery store. -- Turn the wick way down to just a nub, light the lighter and stick the burning lighter down the chimney to light the wick. If you have top opening lamps, you can do this without having to remove the oil pot. For side opening lamps you will need to take the pot out, but can still light it without removing the chimney. You may get a little smudge on the chimney, but in service, most chimneys got pretty smudged up before they were cleaned. You can also take the chimney off, turn the wick way down to the point where it will barely support a flame at all, and then light it and replace the chimney. That way things won’t get too hot, and you can adjust the flame after the chimney is back on. A rule of thumb is to turn the wick up no farther than will support a clean, smoke free flame. If the flame starts to smoke, it is turned up too high. --- I suggest not turning the wick way up, as you had been doing, as it will char the wick. -- Some people claim that fingerprints on the glass can cause differential heating and crack the chimney, though if you have a real PYREX chimney this shouldn’t be an issue; but some suggest handling the chimney with gloves on, especially if it isn’t marked PYREX as there is some questionable aftermarket glass out there. Also a good idea to stockpile a few replacement chimneys. ALSO; For home use, you really don't have to have the glass chimney to light the lamp. In the last years of service, many railroad lamps went without chimneys on poorer roads. See LINK 1 for some good information; click on the drawing and read the printed info at the bottom. ---- …. Red Beard Link 1 Posted Wednesday, September 30, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

Q3015 Dietz Vulcan #39 Lantern Restoration I am restoring a Dietz Vulcan #39 lantern. I have already cleaned it in lye. It came out really nice and uniform. Very nice piece indeed. Only one small dent, otherwise perfect and complete. Will applying a primer and silver paint work out? Was silver the original color scheme? I restore various antiques and want to make sure I am not doing this fine piece any harm. Thank you. Posted Tuesday, September 8, 2015 by DO Post a Reply Email a reply

A. See the answer to prior Q 3010 (use the 'By Question No.' box), and which refers back to earlier Q's, regarding the fact that most RR lanterns were NOT painted. Posted Wednesday, September 9, 2015 by RJMc

A. I second what RJMc said. If you do end up painting it, skip the primer, as eventually you will chip the paint somewhere and the primer color will be very noticeable. I'm not big on painting these, but suggest the least bright silver you can find. There are some 'antique' silvers out there that have a lead-like color to them. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Wednesday, September 9, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Something to know about the original finish: for corrosion protection, lanterns and lamps (switch, marker, etc.) were hot dipped in "terne metal", known as having been "terned"; which was a mix of roughly 80% lead and 20% tin (whereas solder might typically be 40% lead and 60% tin). This left the lantern with an initial bright, shiny metallic finish, which over time oxidized to a more muted gray and then a very dark gray; which is why I suggested a muted, darker silver if you do decide to paint it -- The vast majority of hand lanterns were not painted, but left in that metallic finish of the terne metal. Lamps were painted with "japan black" over the terne. -- Some people think that these were galvanized (zinc coating), but they were actually terned. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Sunday, September 13, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

Q3014 A&W Lantern Info Needed I just aquired this lantern and I would appreciate if anyone could tell me the history and if this globe is the original? Marked Adams and Westlake 26-64. Thanks. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, September 3, 2015 by CD Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Chicago and Northwestern Railroad (of course). Nice! Posted Thursday, September 3, 2015 by JSM

A. It's a fireman's lantern and the globe, while it might fit, id no doubt a later replacement. Posted Thursday, September 3, 2015 by BobF

A. If it's a fire mans lantern you'll want a Red over Clear globe in it to make it first rate. See Link. (Link is to an ended Ebay auction so is acceptable to post here I think) Link 1 Posted Friday, September 4, 2015 by TH

A. Link above doesn't work. Sorry but can't edit comment. Posted Friday, September 4, 2015 by TH

A. There may be some confusion here between a Fire Fighters's Lantern (THAT type of 'fireman') rather than a 'Locomotive Fireman.' I think the comments suggest this is the Fire Department type lantern, and the RR globe got put in later. So both the lantern and the globe may be 'authentic,' just not with each other. Posted Friday, September 4, 2015 by RJMc

A. Are you able to tell me anything more about the piece? The thing I am curious about is why are there no holes running around the top like I see in most lanterns? Thank you. Posted Friday, September 4, 2015 by CD

A. Without a doubt a Fire Dept lantern, with the small triangular hanging hook and the vent holes you are looking for are under the water shield. The water shield was just that a shield to keep spraying water at a fire from getting in the upper vent holes and putting the lantern out. Nice lantern. Posted Friday, September 4, 2015 by COD

Q3011 Gimbal Lamp in Railroading I’ve been trying to find this information on the RR sites, but so far I’ve had no luck. Have you ever heard that the railroads used a gimbal lamp? Thank you. Posted Sunday, August 23, 2015 by BW Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Gimbal-mounted lamps are much more typical of ship's cabins. In rough seas and high waves a ship may tip up to 45 degrees or more, first to one side then the other, without capsizing the ship, so their lighting installations had to tolerate that by gimballing. Many US and Canadian RR's have had and some still have tug boats and ferry boats, and even fleets of cruise boats, which may have had RR-marked marine-type lights. Other than these applications, trains can not tip to anywhere near the angles that ships survive without derailing or overturning, so gimbals were not needed or used for typical railroad car lights. Posted Sunday, August 23, 2015 by RJMc

Q3010 Hocking Valley Lantern Questions I got this Hocking Valley lantern from my grandmother. My grandfather had it for as long as she can remember and they have been together for 40 years of marriage. I have a couple of questions about this Adlake 250 model lantern. My first question: What time frame was the Corning CNX logo used? My next question: After a merger did railroads reuse lanterns that were owned by the railroad they took over? The reason for the the last question is the HV lantern had a C&O cast globe. I'm thinking either the original globe shattered and was replaced with a C&O globe after the merger in 1930 or its globe was lost in time and someone just replaced it with a C&O one to get it working again. I have never seen this combo before. My last question: Did some railroad employees paint their lanterns or were they unpainted most of the time? Thank you. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, August 21, 2015 by CH Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Your lantern was your responsibility. Some railroaders marked or even painted their lanterns so they could readily identify. Coming from the manufacturer they were usually unpainted. Posted Friday, August 21, 2015 by JN

A. The Corning CNX trademark was first used in 1909 and was used up thru the 1950's. The Link is to a page (elsewhere on this Railroadiana website) all about Corning globes. Railroads are 'very frugal' (cheeeep) and would almost always continue to use up available supplies and items already in use, with the prior ownership markings, right on up thru locomotives and cars. One exception might be prominent advertising items, but often not even these were changed until some other factor required their renewal. Since Hocking Valley was absorbed into the C&O system, it is perfectly natural to see a C&O globe placed in a Hocking Valley lantern to keep it in service. As to paint on lanterns, probably a majority were not painted but some railroad lanterns were painted by the manufacturers. See prior Q's 2553, 1664. and 964 for more discussion. Link 1 Posted Friday, August 21, 2015 by RJMc

Q3009 Stuck K-C Font I recently bought this Keystone K-C lantern. However, the top part that screws on to close the oil chamber is stuck on, and a previous owner had tried prying it off with a screwdriver, which made it even worse. Do you know what the best way to go about this would be? I don't want to end up wrecking it, but I don't know if I have any choice.Thank you, [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, August 19, 2015 by Kevin Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Kevin, The burner in your Keystone "Casey" is a signal oil/lard oil burner rather than the "convex" style kerosene burner. It is likely that the now quite hardened residues of that type of fuel have literally "glued" the two halves together. In the past I've used two methods of separating these parts, one is place the whole assembly in an old pot filled with water and Dawn detergent or some other good quality cleaner and degreaser and heat it up just to the point of simmering, turn the heat off and let it soak, when it got just cool enough to handle with gloves I was able to unscrew it wit a good bit of force. That worked for me once. The next time I used a butane micro torch to heat the threaded part and while it was still hot and with a pair of heavy gloves was able to unscrew it quite easily. Also if you're not already aware of it these parts are reverse or "left" threaded so you unscrew it in the opposite direction than usual. Your fount is of the later "new" type and there are instructions for it here on this site. This link should take you to that page. Best of luck. Link 1 Posted Wednesday, August 19, 2015 by WM

A. If you do decide to use heat, do it outside, as some of the old fluids do smell quite ripe when certain temperatures are attained. Posted Thursday, August 20, 2015 by hvcollector

A. That 'left hand thread' pointer is critical....it was done so that the cap and wick assembly did not unscrew when the wick was tried to be raised. Another good and relatively mild source of heat to do the operation described in the answer above is an electric heat gun often used for heat shrinking tubing, unfreezing pipes, etc. They are often available quite inexpensively from the online or discount tool places. And even more available option is a hair dryer. If you can't beg/borrow/steal one in your own household (or are wise enough not to do that!) you can go to the local thrift/resale shop and the hair dryers there usually go for $4 or so, and even have selectable heat settings. Posted Thursday, August 20, 2015 by RJMc

A. As an alternative to heat, which is often my last resort but many times is the only thing left to try works well especially the gentle methods suggested which should not harm finish/patina, is a product called PCL (Protect Clean Lubricate). Great penetrating oil type fluid. Usually available at auto parts stores. I've also had success with kerosene plus patience and a long soak period. Posted Thursday, August 20, 2015 by JSM

Q3008 Dodo BAT Lanterns I have a pair of Dodo BAT lanterns. Can you tell me who made them and what they were used for? My dad is a huge RR fan. I want to restore these Dodo's for him! Would I use the same techniques to restore them that I have seen on your website? Thanks! [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, August 19, 2015 by JH Post a Reply Email a reply

A. JH, This type of lantern was generally used on barricades or around road/utility work in progress to warn motorists and pedestrians of road hazards like the contractor's and utility lanterns here in the U.S. and aren't usually considered R.R. lanterns but I would suspect some did end up in some types of R.R. related service. Most were used in, but not limited to the U.K. and are constructed to a british standard design BS 3143. There were many companies producing them over the years but most all share similar design to comply to the aforementioned standard. Rather than going into lengthy detail I would recommend visiting this website devoted particularly to these lanterns and several other types like the WWII Air Raid Precaution Lamps, road torches etc. with lots of photos and information about them including a little about the origin of the Bat variants. What method of or how much restoration is of course up to you to decide on. The link should take you to the Road Danger Lamps site homepage, at the top you can click on the Bat Variants button. Link 1 Posted Wednesday, August 19, 2015 by WM

Q3007 Lantern Cleaning Info I have two lanterns and found your board as I was in the midst of trying to remove the rust and paint on both of them. I was shocked to see you recommended a lye soak. As someone who makes soap, I have a healthy respect for lye, and I know it reacts strongly with aluminum. (I also question the wisdom of combining lye with hot water: lye gets plenty hot all on its own). I can understand lye soaks for cast iron, but these lanterns look fragile, and furthermore, how can you tell what metal they are made of? One is an Adlake no.250 Kero Wabash RY. (The Adams Westlake Co, Chicago, Elkart, New York.) This is a family hand me down, and according to my mother-in-law’s notes, was made in 1913 and it was once painted silver. This feels like a very malleable metal. The second is a Deitz Vesta New York, Wabash RR. Again. According to my MIL, it was made in 1951. This was painted gold. It appears rusty, but that is the last of the paint, which I suspect was more copper than gold. This is a far more sturdy lantern than the Adlake. If anyone can talk me down from the intense fear of using lye to soak these antiques in, I would be grateful. None of my more natural approaches (vinegar, baking soda, kosher salt) and soft core options (Brasso, Barkeeper’s Friend) have done much at all. If I knew the metal they were composed of , or where I could find that out, it would be a big help. Thanks! Posted Wednesday, August 19, 2015 by CC Post a Reply Email a reply

A. I won't use lye either. They don't even sell it around where I live because of the Meth connection. Anyway I just use paint remover to get the paint off then wearing rubber gloves put Navel Jelly (Rust remover) sold at Lowes etc on with a brush. Wait a bit then rub with steel wool. Wash in hot soapy water. Dry in your kitchen oven for a few minutes when your wife isn't around. The steel will be a grey color until you polish it with fine steel wool as a final step. Others will cringe at this method but it works for me. Posted Thursday, August 20, 2015 by PF

A. The lanterns you are interested in cleaning are made of steel, not aluminum, and so lye will not react with the metal. A quick test with a fridge magnet will confirm. I have successfully cleaned many lanterns with a lye solution and recommend it. Naval jelly is acidic and if left on too long will start eating the steel. Lye removes the unwanted paint, soot, kerosene residue, and it softens rust, all without hurting the underlying metal. Here is how I use lye for cleaning lanterns: ***USE RUBBER GLOVES and EYE PROTECTION*** Take apart the lantern as much as possible. Fill up a five gallon plastic pail with hot water. Add 12 -16 oz of lye. Put in the lantern and cover top of pail with plastic to hold in the heat. Wait at least 24 hours (two days are better) and then remove lantern and rinse it off. Use a Brillo pad (Brillo works the best by far)to scrub the lantern - keep scrubbing and rinsing until lantern is clean of rust and / or paint. Dry the lantern with a towel and then soak in a pail of WD-40 - or spray plenty of WD-40 to remove residual water. A good swabbing with gun oil or LPS 3 rust inhibitor, keeps rust away. Note - Kero 250s date from the late 1920s. Posted Friday, August 21, 2015 by JEM

A. I second JEM's remarks regarding using lye. Yes, there are many other methods out there but lye does work and I've cleaned many railroad lanterns that way. As a collector who spends thousands of dollars on this stuff, would it make sense then that I would ruin these historic pieces with lye after buying them, then pass on bad advice to others on this site? Not likely. Posted Friday, August 28, 2015 by Steve B.

Q3006 What Kind of Lamp? Is this lamp a caboose lamp or a passenger car lamp? Thanks. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, August 9, 2015 by RT Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Hi, I have a lamp similar to this one but from a different railroad. There is a steel bracket that my lamp drops in too which is circular and the lamp I have has a rim on the top of the pot that the bracket rests against. On the back of the bracket are holes to mount on a wall of a caboose. Your lamp is very nice. The shape of the pot is different on yours and obviously was held in a different way. I would say that yours is also a caboose lamp. It is rare to find a caboose lamp in as good a condition as yours is, and many I see for sale or in people's collections are missing the tin reflector. Jerry Hemm is a lamp collector in Washington state and his grandfather worked on the Rock Island. He has an website at: http://jerrysrrstuff.com . He is extremely knowledgeable and friendly. He would be glad to help you identify this lamp and be even more certain than I am. Happy collecting! Posted Sunday, August 9, 2015 by Steve B.

A. what you have there is a railroad warehouse lamp. they could carry the lamp with them and set it down anywhere it was needed. this type of lamp was not used as a wall lamp.the fount was small enough to hold in your hand with out dropping it.the reflector was welded to a bracket and welded to the cap so when you removed the cap to put fuel in it the reflector and the burner came off as one piece it made it easier to re fill. this kind of lamp is hard to find Posted Wednesday, August 12, 2015 by tm

A. Looks cobbled together as the reflector is not in the focal plane of the flame greatly decreasing its effectiveness. Haven't seen anything like this in any railroad supplier catalog or reference book that I have. Perhaps an experienced Rock Island collector could share some better info on what may be a unique RI style of lamp. Looks to me like the tag could have been cut from a dented or rusted out can and soldered on the lamp. Just my guess, still trying to keep an open mind. Posted Wednesday, August 12, 2015 by JFR

A. It sure doesn't look old to me. It wouldn't take much to stamp a tag and apply to a generic lamp. I would be skeptical. Posted Wednesday, August 12, 2015 by bobf

A. this lamp was made by plume and Atwood it has a heavy Gage steel fount to keep it from tipping over. p&A was in business from 1869 to about the 1950s. this was there warehouse model Posted Wednesday, August 12, 2015 by tm

A. I also have never seen a lamp fount such as this one. However, I did recognize the shape...See Link. In addition to the reflector not being set up to match the flame, the rolled seam on the bottom of the tank would prevent it from fitting into the usual caboose mount, which had a cup to receive the lamp fount. Although some of the caboose founts have somewhat rounded tops, although not as rounded as the "CRI&P" one, the lamp fount/tank had to have smooth sides to fit snugly into the bracket. Link 1 Posted Thursday, August 13, 2015 by RJMc

A. A Mill or warehouse would probably have used a "Mill Lantern" (not an oil lamp) in which the globe was well protected in a wire cage and could be hung up or carried about without to much fear of breakage presumably as to avoid a fire in the facility. If you search "Mill Lantern" you'll see some pictures. Posted Thursday, August 13, 2015 by GK

A. Warehouses and mills were required by their insurance companies to have much more secure designs for the lanterns they carried around. This is a stationary lamp and was not designed to be carried around anywhere. It would not be used in moving railroad cars as the globe could be easily knocked off the lamp by slack action. The only way to positively identify this lamp is from the manufacturer's or sellers' catalogs. Many different lamp manufacturers used P&A burners and they were also a popular replacement burner so it can be difficult to identify the actual manufacturer, the age, and the lamp's intended (not always actual) use. Posted Thursday, August 13, 2015 by JFR

A. One dreary night I whittled a worn piece of wood in a switchman's shanty to fit into the end of a fusee to use as a holder/extension. I carved my name and RR initials on it. Is it a RR artifact? I guess it depends on the word provenance. The same I suspect is at work here. Did some Rock Island clerk buy this unlikely lamp for warehouse illumination, then take a box car seal, clip the ends off and solder or glue it to the base? It's unlikely given the lamp in a dry dusty warehouse would be an accident and fire looking for a place to happen. But it's possible...depends on the provenance which seems to be lacking here. Posted Thursday, August 13, 2015 by MG

Q3005 Lantern ID? I purchased this lantern at an auction. Can anybody help me identify it? It says pat 26-64 Chicago on top part. The bottom comes off. Thanks for any help! [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, August 5, 2015 by SC Post a Reply Email a reply

A. To railroad lantern collectors this type lantern is called a brass top - bell bottom (solid metal bottom). The bell bottom in this lantern is removable as you state - some had fixed or non-removable bell bottoms. A very quick look at "The Railroad Lantern" by William Cunningham indicates this lantern may be an Adams & Westlake Model 1873, made from 1874 to 1882. If the bell bottom is a true 1873 one, it should have an A&W makers stamp on the bottom with 14 patent dates. Your picture is out of focus so it is difficult to see the exact configuration of the bail ears and what type of clips are used on the guard wires. These items help to identify the lantern model. Posted Tuesday, August 18, 2015 by JEM

Q3001 Odd Lantern Base Here is a A & W lantern with a heavy brass addition to the underside of the bell bottom. I'm assuming that this was done in a railroad shop but don't how it was used or what purpose it served. I'm thinking it was mounted on a post of some kind and because of the additional heavy weight of the brass it would be very tiring to carry this lantern around all day. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank You [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, August 3, 2015 by DF Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Thanks for your help. I never knew that bellbottom lanterns were weighted also. Do you think that there was some mounting in the engine where this brass ring would lock onto? Link 1 Posted Tuesday, August 4, 2015 by DF

A. It might be a post mounting, but more than likely it was modified for engine service. Steam locomotives bounced wildly in service, as the thrust of the pistons and the pounding of the rods created vibrations. Lantern manufacturers would add weight to the bottom of locomotive lanterns so that they wouldn't bounce around on the deck of the locomotive. Since the engine crew would rarely use it for long periods of time the added weight didn't matter, compared to a brakeman's lantern which would be constantly carried and swung while switching cars. I have attached a link showing a standard wire base locomotive lantern. You can see how heavy the base was. Your lantern may simply be the bell-bottom style. I know that at least the Reading RR physically stamped the their lids specifying "Loco Dept". Link 1 Posted Tuesday, August 4, 2015 by JN

A. I have been studying this for a while now and have not come up with any good answers. Some thoughts: One possibility is that the "P" in PRR here might NOT be for 'Pennsylvania.' Where was the lantern found? Are there any dates on the lantern? A smaller company than the Pennsylvania RR might have had such a specialty light; if it WAS the Pennsylvania there would likely have been bunches of them and we would have seen them before. The L-slot cut in the ring makes it into a "bayonet mount," which is used to twist-lock something into place, with very precise positioning. The lantern would have to be dropped down onto the mount, and it would be a very firm mount. The bell bottom shadow would make the light project out only sideways. Something like a searchlight might make use of these features. I can not picture anywhere on a locomotive where that would be necessary or would make sense. In any case, steam locomotives began getting steam-driven electric headlight generators about 1900 and incandescent lights usable for auxiliary functions became available starting in 1913, so any highly specialized kerosene lantern to be fixed to the locomotive would need to predate that time. Still a mystery on this one. Posted Monday, August 24, 2015 by RJMc

A. To be clear, the heavy-based locomotive-service lanterns shown in the link above were issued and used by many RR's at least until the end of steam in the late 1950's, when the permanently-mounted locomotive lights had been electric for decades. It was the occasional need for portable lights, such as for flagging, that kept the kerosene lanterns in use, and most I have seen had red globes. I do not know if the locomotive-service kerosene lanterns were ever issued for use on any RR's diesels, where they would create a nuisance in an enclosed cab. Electric hand lanterns and red-burning fusees were available to fulfill any flagging requirements. Posted Tuesday, August 25, 2015 by RJMc

A. RJMc, I Thank You for your help. There are no dates on this lantern but I think it is from the 1880-1890's era & it was purchased from a collector on the mid state New York / Pennsylvania border. I'm almost positive that the brass ring was done in a railroad machine shop. The machining is very nicely done but the notch is not cut perfectly and the ring is soldered slightly askew to the bellbottom center. Posted Thursday, September 3, 2015 by DF

Q2999 Embury Lens I received a Dressel Lantern and it had an Amber Embury No 40 Traffic Guard lens with it. Great looking lantern but wrong lens. Doing a little research on the Embury No 40 lens in the book 'Signal Lights' by David Dreimiller, I found that Embury manufactured the Traffic Guard from the early 30’s until Dietz acquired them in 1953. Originally, Embury it appears only produced the lens in Red, Clear & Green. After Dietz started producing the Traffic Guard, it was available with Red, Blue, Green & Amber lenses. My questions are did Embury produce an Amber lens for the Traffic Guard during the time they were produced by Embury (early 30’s – 1953) and how common is an Amber Embury No 40 lens? The lens does say 'EMBURY NO 40' in raised letters on the lens. Thanks for taking the time to reply to my question. [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, August 2, 2015 by RL Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Apparently they did as well as Blue. See link. Yours appears to have a peep hole or flame sight so it was manufactured in 1952, a year before they closed. I think it can be considered a rare globe. I suppose there is always the possibility that it was manufactured by Dietz after they took over Embury in 1953. Link 1 Posted Monday, August 3, 2015 by LN

Q2997 Dietz Vesta Lantern Globes Were or are the Dietz Little Giant/Little Wizard Loc-Nob Globes interchangeable with the Dietz Vesta Lantern Globes? I've seen where some Dietz Vesta Lanterns have a Loc-Nob Globe. Thank you for taking the time to reply to my query. Posted Tuesday, July 28, 2015 by RL Post a Reply Email a reply

A. The "Loc-Nob" ears press under the guard wires to prevent the globe from slipping out when tipped back. Since the Dietz Vesta has no such guard wires around the globe and does not tip back but instead is lifted straight up there are no Loc Nob Dietz Vesta globes. The Litte Wizzard/Giant globes are not interchangeable with the Vesta globes as far as I know. Posted Wednesday, July 29, 2015 by LN

A. LN Thank you for the reply. The Dietz Vesta lantern definitely has a red loc-nob globe in it and it was a listing on eBay. The lantern looked to be in great shape, but seeing those locking nobs on the globe kinda threw me for a loop as I hadn't seen that before. It was listed as a New York RR but the images show U.R.R. stamped on the lid. Another red flag. Posted Wednesday, July 29, 2015 by RL

A. In my opinion its not a correct Dietz Vesta globe. Some one stuck a loc nob Wizzard type globe in it. Not that uncommon on Ebay to get a lantern with the wrong globe stuck in it. The correct globe breaks and someone sticks a globe in it that "kind of fits but not quite". Posted Wednesday, July 29, 2015 by LN

A. Right. And the "New York" comes from the fact that the Dietz Co. was located in New York and that is stamped on the lantern; nothing to do with what RR may have bought or used the lantern. I am surprised we never hear about the "Pat. Pending" railroad.... Posted Friday, July 31, 2015 by RJMc

A. The U.R.R. lantern stamping likely may mean Union Railroad - check the RR names by initials on this site for more info. Wrong globes aren't limited to eBay - We've seen many in antique stores and flea markets. Posted Friday, August 7, 2015 by JS

Q2995 Starlite Lanter Model 222 I have a Conrail Starlite Lantern Model 222. Can anyone tell me when it might have been made? Conrail would date it back to at least 1976 and I know that the current model is the #292. Thank you for any info that you can provide. Posted Saturday, July 25, 2015 by JN Post a Reply Email a reply

A. The Link is to the Star Headlight and Lantern Co. website, showing they are a 5th generation family-owned business and giving a lot of the company history, and contact info. If there is any kind of ID number on your lantern they can probably tell you exactly when it was made. See also prior Q 2908 for a lot of discussion of this type of lantern. Link 1 Posted Saturday, July 25, 2015 by RJMc

A. Out of curiosity I contacted Star headlight and Lantern with this question and they very promptly replied: "The Model 222 was made in the late 1970's and early 1980's. There were no date codes on the lanterns at that time" so there is no way to be more definite. Posted Monday, August 3, 2015 by RJMc

A. That is interesting. I contacted Star last week after I got the lantern and got absolutely no response from them. Those dates are close enough for me. Thanks for finding out the information for me. Posted Monday, August 3, 2015 by JN

Q2992 Lamp ID Needed You guys did real good on the marine deck lantern. How about the age on this one? Small Lenses, marked SLSF RY [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Saturday, July 18, 2015 by BJ Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Hi, SLSF RY stand for the St. Louis-San Francisco Railway, more commonly know as "The Frisco Line". It appears to be a switch lamp. Posted Monday, July 20, 2015 by wdpdepot

A. Hi again BJ, You didn't mention it,but this is a Handlan St Louis mfr'd switchlamp.Assuming that the top cap wasn't replaced in a damage repair,it should state this... DJB Posted Monday, July 20, 2015 by DJB

A. Hi BJ, Take a look or take a pix of the top ventilator cap.If it has the mfr's name and city in 2 straight lines above and below each other,its a fairly old model,probably from the 40's and earlier.If it has the mfr and city in a circle around the outer edge of the cap,its a much later lamp.Another indication of age is the fact that the top hinges open instead of a sliding door to service the fount and burner.That seemed to be the more approved design as time progressed but some roads may have hung on to the hinged-open top later than others.The real experts can pinpoint the production dates of these various features better than I but this will serve to jumpstart the info machine. DJB Posted Monday, July 20, 2015 by DJB

A. adding to DJB's astute comments – The small lenses are uncommon, as most older Handlans found today have all 5 3/8 inch lenses. It most assuredly has the straight line lettering on the cap. The lamp originally came without day targets as it has the short stemmed wick adjusting knob on the side. The lamp is in very good condition. – As always, and in particular because of the overall good condition and rare small lenses; I STRONGLY suggest that you leave it just as it is and -DO NOT- attempt to repaint it!! –-- Frisco and Handlan had a long, as far as I know, an exclusive relationship; perhaps a loyalty cemented by the fact that they were both headquartered in St Louis. I have never come across a FRISCO marked Adlake or Dressel lamp in all the years I’ve been collecting. (same case for the Missouri Pacific) …anyone else?? ---- …. Red Beard Posted Monday, July 20, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. If those Dressels ar the ones I am thinking of, they came into Frisco in the late 70's and not too much before the BN merger. We used to call them "Cannonball" type. Also the small ones was "National Pile" BJ By the way this is a great site. Posted Tuesday, July 21, 2015 by BJ

A. Red Beard, thanks for the memory jog, I haden't heard anyone refer to the porcelain rings as day targets, in many years. It didn't really ring home, but the reflective targets were in use when I went to work in the track in 1970. They was easily seen at night and we phased them out, replacing most with the lift style lanterns that was easier to replace the oil and adjust the burner. The other types, reflective came out, because many of the oil burning lanterns walked off. Posted Tuesday, July 21, 2015 by BJ

A. Well Red Beard, since you asked. I'm in the East and right now on my garage floor I've a stainless Dressel electric marked in the socket StL&FRISCO and 2 kerosene Dressels socket marked MO.P and have also had a few Dressels marked MOPAC in the socket as well. I sold 2 Dressel reflex lamps a couple months ago with the same Frisco cast in socket markings. It's a bit unusual to find these so far from "home" and perhaps somewhat unusual a long time collector like yourself hasn't come across any in home territory yet. Seems a little like my experience with NKP switchlamps, they had a yard and terminal in town, but I've never come across a marked NKP switchlamp. As for the straight line Handlan lettering on the top, that seems to have changed in the late 20' or early 30's to the circular design. Posted Tuesday, July 21, 2015 by JFR

A. Thanks for all the excellent replies. A good friend picked three of these up in St Louis years ago. We were both supervisors for Frisco. Here is a couple more photos. He gave me one. Link 1 Posted Monday, July 27, 2015 by BJ

A. As some have said the Hanlan St Louis is straight line. The wick adjustment on the side, did those have some kind of a rod that attached to the burner? Sounds like the answers reflect the 20's or 30's Thanks BJ Posted Tuesday, July 28, 2015 by BJ

Q2991 Lantern ID Needed I have tried over several years to identify this type lantern. Can you help? Its a Dietz but what is the use, if you have seen one like this? [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by BJ Post a Reply Email a reply

A. This was called the World Standard Deck Lantern by Dietz. Used by the Navy in WW1, these were made for Dietz by the Perkins Marine Co. Posted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by JJ

A. These were also called 'Dark Lanterns' as described in the Link, for including a built-in shield to close off the light quickly in blackout situations. The link has good pix of the same style made by various mfrs. Link 1 Posted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by RJMc

Q2990 Restoration Question I have a Handlan caboose lamp that I want to clean and restore. On the top of the lamp is a flip top cover that attaches to a base piece. This base piece has two small notches on it that when turned would match up with two small dimples on the stack thus allowing the top to be removed. I have tried turning this piece and have applied penetrating solvent to break any rust or corrosion with no luck turning it. Am I on the right track with my observations on removing this piece? It would make cleaning and restoring a lot easier. Thank you for any help!! Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by RD Post a Reply Email a reply

A. This is hard without a picture, but look for a spring under the cap that may be holding spring tension on the part, you may need to press down to depress the spring and then turn. Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by RJMc

A. RD: here’s my advice. 1) DON’T “Restore” it! Clean it up with some detergent, hot water and a soft brush. Sit with the cleaned up lamp as it is for a year or so just as it is and let it grow on you. -- Hobbyists are RUINING historic old pieces on an ongoing basis by attempting to “restore” lamps! – You will never be able to make it look like it did when it was new. You cannot find the original paint they were painted with. As an experienced collector, the refinished lamps I constantly see for sale on line look absolutely AWFUL! The finish on them screams “fake”. – Per my suggestion, clean it up a bit (but not too much) and let it grow on you. – By cleaning it too much, you are removing irreplaceable traces of history! – the grime on the lamp was deposited by decades actual use on the railroad; soot from countless diesels and steam engines rumbling past settled on that lamp while it kept silent sentry on its switch stand. That’s irreplaceable. – In the bottom of the lamp is a fine to heavy layer of grime from countless re-fillings of kerosene plus a good mixture of soot from burning the lamp, which carries a certain fragrance from a bygone era; in the stack too! If you wash that authentic railroad smell out of the lamp you are destroying an historic element of the lamp that you will never be able to replace! ..believe it or not, over time you will come to appreciate that scent; it is uniquely railroad, and once you remove it, you will never be able to smell that authentic fragrance again from a bygone era. Likewise, any soot or dust on the back of the lenses is testament to years of actual railroad service. It signifies that you own a lamp that was actually used on the railroad. I could go on and on. In my younger days, I refinished/restored countless lamps (and I was pretty good at it). Today, I deeply regret having done that, as they look nothing like the authentic finish of the ones I did not “Restore”. Trust me; your taste will change over time, and you will come to greatly appreciate the original condition of your lamp! ---- NOW, to answer your actual question; you’re close, but you’ve got it backwards. The notches and dimples do line up, BUT by reaching inside the lamp and turning the cone that’s inside the stack, you can remove the vent cone; not the top of the lamp, that is a fixed part of the body. ---- Please do think about what I’ve said regarding leaving the lamp in its current, historical condition. ---- …. Red Beard Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. oops, you said caboose lamp, not switch lamp; though the same applies ---- .... Red Beard Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. I tried Red Beard's suggestion when I started my collection but strangely my wife didn't appreciate the dirt, soot, grime and dust not to mention "the fragrance of a by gone era" in the house. So I now clean everything and even restored some items before bringing them in the house. Happy wife, happy life. Posted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by GK

A. RD, it sounds to me like you should consider buying pieces that have already been restored. Since they're already done, you are blameless and can enjoy them with absolutely no guilt! We recently saw a cable TV show where a high-end professional restoration company took in a woman's toy ride-on truck that was her grandfather's. It was old and a bit faded with some dents but nothing really horrific. Famous company charged big bucks to make it totally like new again and the lady was delighted. Our view is completely different: every little bump and dent from Grandpa's little behind was gone. All the paint that his little hands touched was gone. All the scratches from the sidewalk where he rode it were gone. They had replaced some old brass on it, and you couldn't tell what was new from what was old. The truck looked like some brand new thing out of Toys-R-Us, all that remained was the old metal underneath a totally new finish. There was not even the slightest hint that it ever had anything to do with Grandpa. We thought this was just so terribly sad...... And I might mention "Antique Roadshow" where we see all kinds of furniture pieces that have been refinished, worth maybe $500 bucks as-is, but had they been left in original finish the value would have been $100,000. Railroad relics can be the same way. Just consider that even a good refinish destroys collector value, and if someday in the future you must sell, you'll very possibly be very sorry. One last thought -- If you're spending the many hours necessary to restore your lamps, you must be doing it in the basement or garage or a workshop so as to keep soot, dirt, grime and fragrance out of the home. Personally, as the lady of our house, I would prefer my husband to spend that kind of time with me, instead of a lamp. Posted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by JS

A. JS: Nice to know that there are some ladies reading this drivel I grind out. Thanks for the supportive words. -- I rue the day that I (in my twenties) took two dozen+ lamps to have them bead blasted. --- I predict, and at the same time, am very concerned about the idea that 50 years from now the eBay equivalent will reflect your furniture scenario in future railroad lamp prices, with "un-restored" pieces fetching prices many times that of repainted ones; more and more original (read authentic)condition pieces are being destroyed every year by neophyte collectors. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. We railfans are an odd lot; we'll take a beautiful and expensive HO boxcar and spend hours trying to make it look old, rusty and decrepit and call it "weathered", because it then looks more authentic; but when we come up with an authentically weathered and aged switch lamp, we want to spend hours making it look "new". ---- .... Red Beard Posted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Red Beard: I hear you! But the way it seems to be going I fear for any interest in US history at all, by then... it's bad enough now with schools seemingly teaching everything else but.... Indeed in almost every collecting area the holy grail is an unrestored actual condition with value determined by how pristine (or not) it is.... LOL, suggestion, maybe RD should attempt to get the wife interested in china or another area like prints, calendar artwork, heritage train rides, etc and she might become more understanding about smelly old greasy things .... The only thing I can say about "restoration" is that it is better than "repurposing" where ignoramuses destroy an old piece to make it into something different that they think is "cool." If they knew what they had and could determine an actual true value I would not mind so much, but they don't. So the rarest old lantern, or lock, or plate, or ? that a collector gladly would pay an arm for, could fall victim to a "steampunker" who only sees a junker and destroys the last artifact from one of the rarest shortlines. Posted Wednesday, July 22, 2015 by JS

Q2989 Cannonball Electric Switch Lamp Here are pictures of what I think is a cannonball electric railroad switch lamp. I cannot find any manufacture's name or railroad name or initials on the lamp. I have located numbers on the lamp in the following places: (1) 1284 on the outside of the rectangular socket which is located in the center of the base of the lamp where it sits on top of the switch stand (2) 13102 on the inside of the rectangular socket. The lamp appears to have been painted black. There is the slight impression of a rectangle in the metal at the exact top of the lantern, two inches in length and 1/2 inch in width. I cannot tell if there is any lettering at this location. The lamp has four lenses (two red and two teal which I think would be green when the lamp light would be on). The dimension of all four lenses is five inches. Each lens has a 30 degree mark cast in the center of the lens. I would appreciate any information as to age, manufacturer, railroad if possible, years this type of lamp would have been used and any other information that can be provided. If you have any questions, I will attempt to answer. Thank you in advance, [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by CRK Post a Reply Email a reply

A. CRK: I'm thinking that is an ADLAKE base with the "1284" on it. Look again real close and see if that is actually "1264", which is the standard ADLAKE base on 1112 lamps. I've seen photos of these lamps before and have always assumed they were ADLAKE because of the base, though I can't find them on this site and it's odd that Adlake wouldn't mark them. -- Take a look at Q2706; is yours the same lamp?? the foot tabs on your base are longer. Does your base attach with four rivets or eight? Four would be a Dressel base and eight would be an ADLAKE. -- Throw a magnet on the body; is it iron or aluminum? --- RJMc,does this lamp show up in any of your books? ---- .... Red Beard Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Closest I see (in the same reference) is the Adlake Model 1162 exactly as described in Q 2706. Don't see anything from Dressel close to this. It is strange that they didn't mark them. (Any chance the RR made their own? Maybe using some purchased parts from Adlake? N&W still had very capable facilities in Roanoke Shops, including foundries which certainly could have handled casting these in aluminum or steel, even into the 1970's). Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by RJMc

A. Red Beard: Thanks for your quick response. The number on the base is actually 1264. Using a magnet, the body is aluminum and the base is cast iron. The base is attached to the body by eight rivets. I looked at the pictures in Q2706 and that lamp appears to be very simular to the one I have. I agree with your observation that the foot tabs on my lamp appear to be longer. Based on this, am I to assume that the manufacturer of my lamp is ADLAKE and the model number is 1112? If you have any thoughts as to the approximate age of my lamp and span of years that it may have been used, I would appreciate you letting me know. Thanks again, CRK Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by CRK

Q2988 Two-Tone Globes Does anyone have any information on the two tone globes that were used in the presentation lanterns? The colors are Green over Clear, Blue over clear, and red over clear. Who used these color globes in the lanterns, conductors or someone else on the train?? Also, what were these colors was used for? What is the rarest of these three colors to find? Also did fireman on the railroad use the red over clear globes specifically? Thank you. Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by PRR Girl Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Hello. The first Link is to the page elsewhere here on the RRiana site which is all about globes in general. The second Link is to the next page, which is all about two color globes in particular. These should be helpful. Link 1 Link 2 Posted Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by RJMc

Q2985 Another Heritage Kero Not Listed? Up popped what I think are Adlake Heritage lanterns on Ebay. There are two lanterns listed they are: The first is an Adlake Kero Lantern marked R&GV RR with Blue Globe marked M&PP RY (Manitou and Pikes Peak). That lantern is listed on your Heritage page but the globe isn't. The second is unclear. The picture looks like it says Adlake Railroad on the top. The picture is cut off but the last part of the word is 'road'. The lantern is marked Cog Wheel Rt and it comes with an unmarked red globe. Any thoughts? Posted Tuesday, July 7, 2015 by BB Post a Reply Email a reply

A. Also can add Union Pacific to the heritage list...brass, red short globe with etched Union Pacific shield logo, bottom drain hole. Posted Sunday, December 30, 2018 by ShastaRoute

A. Just an afterthought since it's not mentioned on the site, Schrader did once carry Adlake coated-brass Kero's with red globes. In the 2001 catalog there was no mention of any of the applied railroad names that could be had on battery lanterns. Apparently these were plain types. The measurement they supplied was 15" extreme. Posted Tuesday, December 3, 2019 by ShastaRoute

Q2979 Book on RR Lamps? I am just amazed at the depth of information displayed here by certain individuals on train lamps, etc. Does anyone know of any good books, with plenty of photos, that I may purchase on this subject? I went to my local public library and found nothing. Has anyone in this group considered writing such a book....Red Beard??? Posted Friday, June 26, 2015 by JPH Post a Reply Email a reply

A. You need to locate copies of "The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Railroad Lighting" written by Richard Barrett with research assistance from Joseph Gross, published by Railroad Research Publications of Rochester, NY. Vol. I on railroad hand lanterns has 389 full-size heavily illustrated pages on the history and products of every North American lantern manufacturer and type that the authors could locate, and they worked very hard at it, going directly to the surviving manufacturers, to historical catalogs, and to many collectors for info. Vol. I saw at least three reprintings between 1994 and 2003. Vol. II is of similar size and comprehensiveness to cover railroad lamps, including markers, classification lights, etc. Vol II is harder to locate but we refer to it very often. These have also been reproduced soft-bound. Unfortunately Vol. III, which was intended to cover headlights, was never completed. Another useful reference is the book "Lanterns That Lit Our World." by Anthony Hobson. It is far smaller and less comprehensive than the Barrett volumes, but often provides a counterpoint of the non-railroad applications of many lamps and lanterns. Posted Friday, June 26, 2015 by RJMc

A. And the above books and others are listed in the "Book List" elsewhere here on the Railroadiana site, see the Link. Link 1 Posted Friday, June 26, 2015 by RJMc

A. JPH: thank you for the encouragement on that. At some point I'd like to publish what I've rambled on about here. Having grown up in a railroad town, I saw many lamps while they were still in use on the railroads. I was also fortunate enough to have acquired a few of them back then, so much of what I write about is the first hand knowledge of experience. --- Do know this though; I have probably tripled that knowledge base over the past few years by carefully studying the photos on eBay! Most sellers put multiple detailed photos on their eBay listing. Those detailed photos, at different angles, are an amazing resource for those of us doing ongoing research!! -- I suggest taking some time each week and pouring through the listings under both "Railroad Lamp" and "Railroad Lantern", as lamps and lanterns end up in both categories. -- Truth be told, ..if it weren't for the excellent questions you guys post on here, it wouldn't occur to me to write about any of that stuff! - If I did produce a book, what would you like to see in there? - Seriously; give me some ideas, Thanks again, ---- .... Red Beard Posted Friday, June 26, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. JPH; ..feel free to email me directly as well (and any other readers) at.. RailroadRaider@Gmail.com ---- .... Red Beard Posted Saturday, June 27, 2015 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Good suggestions, another one I like is David Dreimiller's Signal Lights book. If you're patient, you should be able pick up a copy on ebay for less (sometimes much less) than $40.00. The link is for info only, price listed there is VERY "optimistic". ' . Link 1 Posted Monday, June 29, 2015 by JFR

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